Cosmic Chromorphing Shadow ⋅ Gattefossé

In a few words

Magic inside! This eyeshadow glides easily on eyelids and transforms itself from a pearly white to a cosmic grey. With only one product, a smoky eye can be created with differents shades.

Thanks to its substantiated emulsifier, Emulium® Dolcea MB, this formula is super stable, and moisturizes the skin.

Lipocire™ A SG adds a melting sensation upon application and increases creaminess.

Key points

Transforming
Magic effect
White to cosmic grey

Upon application

Formula

Phase	Name	INCI	Supplier	%
A	DEMINERALIZED WATER	WATER	_	54.15
A	AVICEL® PC 591	MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE, CELLULOSE GUM	DUPONT	0.60
A2	SATIAXANE™ VPC 911	XANTHAN GUM	CARGILL	0.25
	PROPANEDIOL	PROPANEDIOL	_	3.00
	VANATURAL®	BENTONITE	R.T. VANDERBILT	1.00
B	EMULIUM® DOLCEA MB	CETEARYL ALCOHOL, GLYCERYL STEARATE, JOJOBA ESTERS, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX, SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE, WATER, POLYGLYCERIN-3	GATTEFOSSE	4.50
	LIPOCIRE™ A SG	C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES	GATTEFOSSE	4.50
	CETYL ALCOHOL	CETYL ALCOHOL	_	1.50
	CETIOL® C5	COCO-CAPRYLATE	BASF	10.00
	PRESERVATIVE	PRESERVATIVE	_	1.00
C	COVAPEARL® SATIN 931	TITANIUM DIOXIDE, MICA	SENSIENT	5.00
	SYNCRYSTAL® SPARKLING SILVER	SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, TIN OXIDE	ECKART	2.00
	XIRONA® NORDIC SUNSET	SILICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, TIN OXIDE	MERCK	5.00
	MIRAGE® HOLO MAGIC	CALCIUM SODIUM BOROSILICATE, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, TIN OXIDE, IRON OXIDES, SILICA	ECKART	4.00
	REFLECKS™ MUTLIDIMENSION CHANGING CHERRY	CALCIUM SODIUM BOROSILICATE, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, SILICA	SENSIENT	2.00
D	BIOGENIC™ MAGICOLOR 140B ECO	IRON OXIDES, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, MICA, ZEIN	BIOGENIC INC.	3.00
				100.00

Operating instruction

Heat phase B at 75-80°C. Check that all ingredients are melted (could present some turbidity due to Emulium® Dolcea MB) and maintain at 75°C.
Heat water of phase A1 at 75°C, add Avicel® PC 591 and disperse under high shear with rotor stator for 10 minutes. Check homogeneity.
Add premix A2 into A1 and disperse under high shear with rotor stator for 15 minutes. Check homogeneity.
Proceed with the emulsion of phase B into phase A at 75°C under medium shear, and then increase to high shear (3000 rpm) for 10 minutes.
Cool down under moderate shear and below 40°C add phase C. Mix under moderate shear for 10-15 minutes (do not use rotor stator, only mixing tools).
Below 30°C add phase D under very slow mixing until it is homogeneous. Do not use rotor stator: the beads of incapsulated pigments are very fragile, it requires slow mixing.
Finish to cool down until reaching 25°C. Check the pH and adjust if necessary.