All publications
Preparation and characterization of liquid crystal emulsions based on a wax ester emulsifier
Oct 2024
Liquid crystals have fascinated the cosmetic world for many decades because of the interest in terms of biomimetism, moisturization/barrier function, active controlled release, and stability they bring to emulsions. In the past, the creation of such structures was possible with the use of PEG emulsifiers, whereas it’s now possible to create them using natural origin materials. In this study the effects of manufacturing process and formulation composition on the formation of liquid crystals with a wax ester emulsifier will be presented.
Construction of spheroids from melanocytes of different ethnic origins: screening model and variation
53rd Annual ESDR Meeting (4-7 September 2024, Lisbon, Portugal) - Sep 2024
Melanogenesis is a complex porcess, ans its in vitro modeling remains a challenge to develop relevant test suitable for rapid preclinical evaluation of the efficacy of lightening products to modulate human skin pigmentation.
Melanocytes are known to lose their ability to synthesize melanin in monolayer culture, even though the melanin content correlates with the ethnic background of the donors. Tissue engineering is an alternative to 2D culture because the cell behaviors in 3D microenvironment are closer to skin physiology.
We therefore compared the efficacy of 3 assays as high-throughput in vitro systems for skin-lightening drug screening: (i) Monolayer 2D culture of proliferative melanocytes, (ii) Microtissue 3D spheroid of non-proliferative melanocytes, (iii) Epidermal tissue 3D model containing functional melanocytes.
Elastogenic potential and antisagging properties of a novel Murraya koenigii extract
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology - 2023
The newly discovered extract of Murraya koenigii leafy stems represents an innovative antiaging ingredient suited for elasticity-boosting and antisagging claims.
A multiparametric, stepwise in vitro approach to identify anti-dark circle and anti-puffiness ingredients
IFSCC Congress - 2022
A unique plant extract with promising anti-puffiness and anti-dark circle potential has been identified using the stepwise selection model.
Advanced translational cosmetics: using the world’s first non-invasive bioimpedance 3D bioprinted skin chips to link cosmetics lab testing to humans
IFSCC Congress - 2022
This model enables advanced translational lab-to-donor data to help bring sophisticated cosmetics ingredients to market faster, safely and more affordably.
A NaDES extract of Rose ‘Jardin de Granville®’ displays pro-resolving and epidermal strengthening properties
IFSCC Congress - 2022
The fructose/propanediol/water (NaDES FPW113) extract of “Jardin de Granville” Rose flowers has demonstrated great potential in vitro and ex vivo to support epidermal homeostasis and counteract the inflammaging process.
Unexpected elasticity-booting properties of a traditional ayurvedic plant
ESDR - 2021
Murraya koenigii extract displays undeniable elasticity boosting properties, highlighted at molecular, cellular
and tissue levels, and appears as a powerful anti-aging ingredient.
Scrutiny of the supramolecular structure of bio-sourced fructose/glycerol/water ternary mixtures: towards green low transition temperature mixtures
Journal of Molecular Liquids - 2021
This comprehensive study is a prerequisite for a further industrial implementation of eco-designed solvents in various applicative attractive domains, as in cosmetic field.
Biobased and non-ionic LTTMs composed of fructose and glycerol: water and temperature impact on the supramolecular organization
International Meeting on Deep Eutectic Systems - 2021
The objective is to u nderstand interactions at the molecular level for various F/G/W mixtures and establish a relationship between their micro and macroscopical features.