An adaptogen plant that revives fatigued skins
Cellular energy is the driving force behind all chemical reactions (protein synthesis, molecules transfer, etc.) and as such, is essential for the proper functioning of the different skin layers. Various stressors affect this crucial vitality.
Aging reduces cellular dynamism, notably that of fibroblasts, which in turn weakens the dermis structure. Other factors act as additional environmental stress, such as artificial visible light (AVL) emitted by the screens. More particularly, it damages the mitochondria, in charge of producing cellular fuel in the form of ATP, and disrupts the morphology and behavior of fibroblasts, hindering the essential matrix remodeling process.
Gattefossé has unearthed a plant with exceptional energizing properties and produced new clinical evidences.
Ashwagandha, the queen herb of Ayurveda
Often referred to as "Indian Ginseng," Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) is classified as a Rasayana in Ayurvedic medicine. A Rasayana is a botanical preparation renowned for its ability to promote both physical and mental well-being, as well as the preservation of youthfulness.
The pharmacological attributes associated with Ashwagandha are vast and well-documented. Among them, it exhibits anti-stress, neuroprotective, anti-arthritic, tonic, or anti-inflammatory properties. Ashwagandha, like many other Rasayana herbs, is even recognized as an adaptogen, signifying its capacity to fortify the body against various forms of stressors.
The resurgence of adaptogens is remarkable in contemporary times. These versatile botanicals are receiving accolades from consumers, particularly in cosmetics and nutraceuticals, for their ability to help the skin and body adapt to an increasingly challenging environment.
The energizing power of Ashwagandha demonstrated on skin cells
Using its innovative NaDES technology (Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents), Gattefossé created EnergiNius®, derived from the revitalizing roots of Ashwagandha. This bioactive encompasses a rich phytochemical content, including minerals, sugars, amino acids, and withanolids, which are rare in the plant world.
Through a comprehensive research protocol, it unveiled its ability to revitalize the skin's energy levels and combat the detrimental effects of digital stress.
EnergiNius® stimulates the synthesis of Extracellular Matrix (ECM) proteins, a process that typically diminishes with aging and ends with a loss of skin tonicity. Elastin and Fibrillin-1 synthesis increased by a +84% and +87%, respectively, in a monolayer culture of fibroblasts treated with the active.
Moreover, in fibroblasts exposed to digital stress (AVL), it revealed 3 main properties:
- Its ability to fight against the decrease of gene expression related to mitochondria and actin cytoskeleton. It protects the transcriptome of dermal fibroblasts against such a stress.
- The maintenance of the integrity of the mitochondrial network, preventing its fragmentation and ensuring the full restoration of ATP production.
- Safeguarded mobility and communication properties of fibroblasts from the adverse effects of screen light exposure. Cellular activity as well as the production of key matrix components are maintained.
Boosted tonicity and vitality
Volunteers presenting a lack of tonicity and firmness applied a cream infused with 2% of the active ingredient twice daily for two months. A placebo was administered on the other side.
Clinical scoring results confirm these effects on both the face and arms. A dermatologist investigator evaluated various criteria, encompassing skin firmness, tonicity, fatigue, skin texture, and radiance.
Skin tonicity exhibited significant improvement with the active treatment in comparison to the placebo, registering a gain of +48.7% on the face and +21.6% on the arms. The skin, as a result, appeared plumper (+42.0%) and significantly smoother (+44.2%). Notably, signs of fatigue became less visible (-19.2%), and the skin's vitality was restored (+41.2%).
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