All publications

Elastogenic potential and antisagging properties of a novel Murraya koenigii extract

  • Scientific publication

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology - 2023

C. Lorion PhD, V. Bardin, S. Bonnet, A. Lopez-Gaydon, B. Vogelgesang, N. Bechetoille PhD

The newly discovered extract of Murraya koenigii leafy stems represents an innovative antiaging ingredient suited for elasticity-boosting and antisagging claims.

Scrutiny of the supramolecular structure of bio-sourced fructose/glycerol/water ternary mixtures: towards green low transition temperature mixtures

  • Scientific publication

Journal of Molecular Liquids - 2021

B. Caprin, V. Charton, J-D. Rodier, B. Vogelgesang, A. Charlot, F. Da Cruz-Boisson, E. Fleury

This comprehensive study is a prerequisite for a further industrial implementation of eco-designed solvents in various applicative attractive domains, as in cosmetic field.

A rapid and sensitive method for characterization and quantification of polyglycerol esters by supercritical fluid chromatography coupled to high-resolution mass spectrometry (SFC-HRMS)

  • Scientific publication

The International Journal of Pure and Applied Analytical Chemistry - 2021

Thi Phuong Thuy Hoang, Nicolas Ritter, Jean-David Rodier, David Touboul

Polyglycerol esters of fatty acids are widely used in cosmetics. However, no study related to the purification and the absolute quantification of these compounds has been described yet.

The use of NADES to support innovation in the cosmetic industry

  • Scientific publication

Advances in Botanical Research - 2021

Caprin Benoit, Charton Virginie, Vogelgesang Boris

Since their introduction, natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) have emerged as a promising, eco-friendly alternative to petrochemicals to dissolve plant metabolites.

Differential profile of proinflammatory/proresolving lipid mediators in acute inflammation model using young and old skin biopsies

  • Scientific publication

Dermatology Research - 2021

Lopez-Gaydon Amandine, Baillif Vincent, Bertholon Cindy, Van Goethem Emeline, Demarne Frédéric, Dubourdeau Marc, Bechetoille Nicolas

Skin aging may involve an endogenous inflammation resolution program displaying dysregulation and/or absence of proresolving mediators.

An efficient method to determine the Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance of surfactants using the phase inversion temperature deviation of CiEj/n-octane/water emulsions

  • Scientific publication

International Journal of Cosmetic Science - 2019

M. Nollet, H. Boulghobra, E. Calligaro, J.-D. Rodier

A fast and accurate method has been developed to determine the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) number of amphiphilic chemicals.

The Camera Never Lies: Visualizing Sun Protection Loss and Ways to Fortify Films

  • Scientific publication

Cosmetics&Toiletries - 2019

Vincent Hubiche, Malorie Duvent, Viviane Bardin, Paula Lennon

Visualizing sun protection loss and ways to fortify films.

Differential profiles of pro-inflammatory and specialized pro-resolving lipid mediators in PMA-treated skin biopsies from young and old donors

  • Scientific publication

Journal of Investigative Dermatology - 2018

N. Bechetoille, V. Baillif, A. Lopez-Gaydon, E. Van Goethem, F. Demarne, M. Dubourdeau

The skin immune system is regulated by bioactive lipids that initiate and amplify inflammation but control its efficient ending also called resolution.

Keratinocyte stem cells are more resistant to UVA radiation than their direct progeny

  • Scientific publication

PLOS ONE - 2018

Elodie Metral, Nicolas Bechetoille, Frédéric Demarne, Odile Damour, Walid Rachidi

Keratinocyte stem cells, which are responsible for epidermal renewal throughout life, are equipped with an efficient arsenal against several genotoxic agents.