Unexpected Suncare
Gattefossé has applied its sensory and formulation expertise to suncare to meet consumer expectations and provide UV protection that is a pleasure to use.
The sun, our favorite “frenemy”
The sun is necessary to life. It induces positive effects such as the promotion of vitamin D synthesis, melatonin synthesis which helps maintain the biological rhythms, and it has also been proven to positively influence the mood by promoting release of endorphins.
But the sun exposure brings also some negative short and long-term effects to the organism. The most known and visible one, sunburn, is linked to UVB. Shortly after exposure, reactional acne, summer Lucitis, or photosensitization can appear. In addition, it is also well known that repeated sun (and especially UVA) exposure can lead to photo aging associated symptoms such as dark spots, wrinkles, elastosis, and ultimately skin cancer.
The risks associated with sun exposure are therefore important enough to privilege proper protection from its rays.
What is photoprotection?
Photoprotection is ensured by suncare products, which are characterized by 3 distinct elements:
- The SPF, or Sun Protection Factor, which indicates the product’s level of protection towards UVB rays;
- The UVA performance, which is not evaluated in the same way depending on the area. In Europe, UVA performance should be at least 1/3 of the SPF, while in the UK, there is a specific evaluation system called BOOTS star rating. And in Asia, it is rated between PA+ and PA++++, from 2 to 16. On the contrary, it is not required in the US;
- The broad spectrum performance, which is only mandatory in the US.
To bring an efficient photoprotection to the skin, suncare products contain UV filters. These particular cosmetic ingredients are divided into 2 categories:
- Organic UV filters: this heterogenous group of complex molecules, in liquid or powder form, hydrophilic or lipophilic, bring UVA and/or UVB protection. They work by absorbing the UV rays at the skin surface, preventing their penetration.
- Inorganic UV filters: these powders can be used already predispersed or not. There is only 2 of them: titanium dioxide, which protects against UVB, and zinc oxide, with broad spectrum efficacy. They work by reflecting UV rays at the skin surface or scattering them. During scattering, a particle will disperse the UV rays it receives onto those around, which will do the same, reducing the intensity of the rays.
But adding UV filters in a cosmetic formulation brings a lot of problems…
Performance first
The first objective of a suncare product is to be efficient. Organic and inorganic UV filters need to be carefully formulated to ensure an effective protection against UV rays.
If organic UV filters are used, the first thing to think of is proper solubilization. Each organic UV filter has a specific solubilizer. It is therefore necessary to identify the best combination by consulting the UV filter supplier’s documentation and then doing some experimental lab work (visual test, microscopy).
If inorganic UV filters are chosen, ensuring their good dispersion is crucial. For this, the use of a dispersing or wetting agent is necessary. Coated grades facilitate the compatibility, the dispersibility and the sensoriality of the UV filters.
Another tip is to combine organic and inorganic UV filters. The resulting synergy effect will increase the final SPF of the formula.
The use of other ingredients can help:
- SPF boosters: increase the final SPF without increasing the total amount of UV filters in the formula
- Photostabilizers: maintain UV filters performance after UV radiation
Finally, it is important to create a homogeneous film at the skin surface by choosing the right gelling agents and adding a film former.
Stability challenge
Stability is always a challenge for cosmetic products, and especially for suncare products because of UV filters. Fluid and sprayable ones are particularly difficult to stabilize.
The first thing to check is the packaging that will be used. Viscosity drop at high temperature (especially for beach products) can be a problem if the packaging is not adapted. Moreover, W/O formulas sometimes interact with some materials, leading to instabilities.
The choice of the right gelling system is primordial to guarantee a perfect stability. It depends again on the packaging used, but some gums may increase stability at high temperature.
Finally, the type of emulsions (W/O or O/W) and emulsifier play a key role in the formula stability. Depending on the type of UV filters used and the other ingredients of the formula, the emulsifier is more or less compatible and may no longer fulfil its emulsifying function.
Sensoriality is key
Sensoriality is not only essential to ensure a second purchase, but above all it favors regular application and proper skin protection. In sunscreens, organic and inorganic UV filters present sensorial disadvantages to overcome.
Organic UV filters bring greasiness, shine, tackiness, and a high film residue to final formulas. These drawbacks can be balanced by using powders, adding alcohol, adapting the emollients and feeling agents and using SPF boosters to reduce the total amount of UV filters and the quantity of oils.
Inorganic UV filters, on the other hand, increase formula dryness, roughness, and whitening effect if they are non-nano. Adapting the emollients and feeling agents improves the formulation afterfeel. As the emulsifying system impacts the product’s sensoriality, changing the emulsifier can also be a solution. Reducing the filters’ particle size or tinting the formula can counteract the whitening effect.
Gattefossé suncare expertise
Gattefossé’s ingredients for unexpected suncare products
Gattefossé has developed texture ingredients that respond to the major issues encountered in the formulation of suncare products: performance, stability, and sensoriality.
Emulium® Illustro, a W/O emulsifier, has proven its compatibility with organic, mineral UV filters and SPF boosters and creates stable formulations with a comfortable feel.
Emulium® Dermolea MB, an O/W emulsifier, is multi-functional as it can create from spray to thick butters. Designed for sensitive skin, this ingredients enables the creation of suncare products with a light residual film and non-greasy afterfeel. It has been highly substantiated, a good choice to create suncare formulas adapted to senstive skin and vegan skincare ranges.
Emulium® Dolcea MB, an O/W emulsifier, creates stable textures with an ultra-soft and non-tacky afterfeel. In addition to its biodegradable nature, its moisturizing properties will benefit any sunscreen products.
Emulium® Mellifera MB is another O/W emulsifier that makes it possible to formulate suncare products with a light and non-greasy finish. Its capacity to auto-adapt to climates and its many different claims make it a perfect emulsifier for suncare applications with skincare benefits.
Emulfree® CBG MB creates surfactant-free system with water resistance. The bi-gel technology enables the formulation of ultra-light quick-break textures, for suprizing suncare formulas with a "WOW" effect.
Finally, Acticire® MB is an active texturizing agent that improves sensoriality of suncare products by reducing the greasy and tacky afterfeel. It also improves durability of the protective film on the skin, as observed with the UV camera.
Selection of suncare formulas for all situations and needs
Gattefossé’s application lab has been working on new formulations, with very different sensory profiles and containing organic UV filters, mineral or a combination of both, to meet all expectations in terms of photo-protection.
Find out more about these formulas their ingredients in our booklet:
Other formulations are available on demand. Do not hesitate to contact your Gattefossé’s sales representative for more information about these formulations or for any suncare development project to benefit from Gattefossé’s expertise.